An anguished fuck.
Leaving South Africa.
Monday, September 19, 2011
Thursday, September 8, 2011
earth, and the rock that speaks
A few days ago i visited the Iziko South African Museum of Natural History to look and educate myself. I won't go on about it too much, but just say that if you are ever in Cape Town it is well worth the visit. What most interested me was the rock art of the |xam people, the first-known inhabitants of the lands of southern Africa. I transcribed an oral account given by ||kaboo, a |xam bushman from the 19th century, giving an explanation of these rock paintings and engravings.
"The !Gwe: of the |xam people are in/inside their bodies.
They (the !Gwe:) talk, they move,
They make their (the |xam's) bodies move.
They (the |xam) order silence to them (the other |xam);
The man is altogether still/quiet,
Because he feels that
His body/flesh is tapping (inside).
A dream is that which deceives,
It is that which cheats;
The |k"umm is that which speaks truly,
It is the one
With which a |xam person is wont to perceive meat;
Because it (the |k"umm), was that which stirred/tapped/quivered.
The |xam people do perceive the people coming,
With it, by means of it."
- Testimony of ||kaboo
The |k"umm that is spoken of can be translated roughly as "presentiment" and the term for !Gwe: is a bit hazy, as the definition given is "resembles the letters/symbols which take a message or account to another place," as the rock paintings are intended to do. The "other place," though, might forever remain a mystery.
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Johannesburg and Johannesburg
Joburg was nice. I liked it a lot. There are a lot of things to see in Joburg. I am sad i didn't get to see all of them. Oh well. We stayed with a very nice family in Joburg. They were called the van Aswegens. They had a beautiful house. And 2 dogs. And some fish. And a parrot called Humphrey. Humphrey could talk. The dogs were called Cody and Lucy.
wow, i really dont feel like writing this right now. be back later.
oskar
wow, i really dont feel like writing this right now. be back later.
oskar
Saturday, August 27, 2011
Phokeng Rustenberg
The Royal Bafokeng Stadium in Rustenberg is not actually in the city of Rustenberg, in a community located several kilometers away from Rustenberg called Phokeng City. Phokeng is the capital of the Royal Bafokeng Nation, about which you can read more here!, i won't go into all the details on the blog, and it is the Bafokeng king who sanctioned and still now manages the sports stadium. Phokeng City was an interesting experience; as a independent (geographically speaking) community, it seemed (to the eyes of the outside observer), the most uniform and equal (in social terms). We didn't have a lot of time to spend actually exploring the area, as the stadium was the priority, and we were pressed for time, but if i could, it would like to return to spend more time here.
The stadium itself was a nice structure. Not as old as the Bloemfontein stadium (the Royal Bafokeng Stadium was constructed in 1999), it is a much nicer and more appealing structure, yet it also seems to have integrated itself just as well within the community, for example some of the local schoolchildren use some of the facilities around the stadium for their physical education classes. The stadium has a similar shape to Bloemfontein one (oval bowl with 1 stand rising above the others), but the bowl structure itself is lower, as well as more expansive which settles it within the indigenous dry and dusty landscape better, and the arc of the one stand which towers above the others is more dramatic, especially if viewed from the side at a distance. The lazy nature of the body of the stadium, along with this arc jutting out leads to a nice juxtaposition and an interesting stadium design.
Photographing the stadium was a very nice experience, given all the open space around it, the lack of tall structures in the way, and the general impression the stadium makes upon the landscape. As i previously mentioned, we didn't have as much time in Phokeng City, we had to get back to Johannesburg that night, and i was also trying to scout out the Pretoria stadium that same day, but this was one of the stadiums i was most impressed with on this trip.
Phokeng City also introduced me to the culinary speciality which is the chip roll.
It was PHOKENG GREAT!
cheers,
oskar
Thursday, August 25, 2011
Bloemfontein
The Free State Stadium (also now known as Vodacom Park) in Bloemfontein was the first stadium i photographed on this trip. In general it was quite a bland and typical-looking for what it was; oval-shaped, with two tiers of seating, and the only distinguishable feature on it was the western side of seating which was more elevated than the others, and separated from the other 3 sides. Situated between a small park and a shopping mall, it seemed to have integrated itself well with it's surroundings, and has found it's place within the city. The stadium itself has existed since 1995, built for the Rugby World Cup, with only slight modifications for the FIFA World Cup (the western side had an additional tier of seats built, upgrades to the floodlighing and media facilities, and new turnstiles), and it seems has already become an established structure within the cityscape.
Looking back on it now it was probably one of the more boring stadiums, but i still remember it fondly because of the optimism but also trepidation which i felt when i started photographing it. I had the feeling that this was what the last 6 months of planning and thinking and hoping have finally led up to, and it was incredibly exciting.
After that we bought some sandwiches from Woolworth's which were not as good as they looked. Since Bloemfontein i have photographed 6 more stadiums, have seen my optimism deflate and subsequently arise several times, i have grown as a human being, and decided to never buy anything from Woolworth's again.
cheers,
oskar
Wednesday, August 24, 2011
The Drive and the Jive
The Heaviest Boogie Ever Laid Down
Right, dedicating this post to the actual driving experience, and everything it encompassed.
As i was looking over maps and other such stuffs, the magnitude of the task at hand began to dawn on me. South Africa is quite a large country, and the distances between these cities i had to visit are not slight, therefore the most careful and precise planning would have to go into it. So naturally we spent most of the time before the trip arguing with Rachel (my travel companion) over which cd's we would take for the drive. In the end we decided we could only take full albums, no mixes or best-ofs, and once an album was in, we had to listen to it all the way through. Some which got the heaviest rotations were:
-London Calling, The Clash
-Doolittle, Pixies
-Muj Wydafca, Kult
-Kind of Blue, Miles Davis
-Electric Warrior, T. Rex
-White Chalk, PJ Harvey
-Closing Time, Tom Waits
-Speaking in Tongues, Talking Heads
Now, driving 5000km in the course of 12 days is no mean feat, and it might seem arduous or unpleasant, yet this country is so beautiful that it was a pure joy. The highways were almost empty, the car was small and nifty, and it felt as if we were suspending in a magical vacuum, with just the crisp blue sky above us and the broad Karoo extending as far as the eye can see in every direction. (The Karoo is a geographical region of large significance to the culture and history of South Africa. You can read more about it here: Karoo.)
The Karoo is also incredibly beautiful. There is no other way to describe it. It is astounding, this gigantic, rough, dusty expanse of reddish earth, broken occasionally by oddly shaped hills, small shrubbery and the semi-wild sheep which have somehow found a way to graze upon the sparse and tough vegetation. But then suddenly you round a curve and before you there are flowers, flowers! the vibrant and luminous orange and yellow and violet striking your eyes like a funky meteorite. In one episode, as we stopped for lunch by the side of the N1 highway, i was overcome, yes indeed, overcome, with such postivity and joy to be alive, i took of my shirt because i couldn't afford not to. The earth, the silence, the sun falling on my bare skin, i was at peace with myself and the world around me.
The Karoo was by far the most pleasant to drive to, but the drive from Polokwane to Nelspruit was eye-opening as well, though for different reasons. That area makes you feel like you are in the "real Africa", the Africa as it has been shaped in the western mentality; the villages with shacks made from sheet metal and cardboard, the poverty and the hunger. I don't want to postulate too much on these complex topics in a blog such as this, but coming face to face with these realities makes you seriously question and examine your own.
I will leave you with a photograph of the Karoo, courtesy of the flickr account of South African Tourism.
cheers,
oskar
Right, dedicating this post to the actual driving experience, and everything it encompassed.
As i was looking over maps and other such stuffs, the magnitude of the task at hand began to dawn on me. South Africa is quite a large country, and the distances between these cities i had to visit are not slight, therefore the most careful and precise planning would have to go into it. So naturally we spent most of the time before the trip arguing with Rachel (my travel companion) over which cd's we would take for the drive. In the end we decided we could only take full albums, no mixes or best-ofs, and once an album was in, we had to listen to it all the way through. Some which got the heaviest rotations were:
-London Calling, The Clash
-Doolittle, Pixies
-Muj Wydafca, Kult
-Kind of Blue, Miles Davis
-Electric Warrior, T. Rex
-White Chalk, PJ Harvey
-Closing Time, Tom Waits
-Speaking in Tongues, Talking Heads
Now, driving 5000km in the course of 12 days is no mean feat, and it might seem arduous or unpleasant, yet this country is so beautiful that it was a pure joy. The highways were almost empty, the car was small and nifty, and it felt as if we were suspending in a magical vacuum, with just the crisp blue sky above us and the broad Karoo extending as far as the eye can see in every direction. (The Karoo is a geographical region of large significance to the culture and history of South Africa. You can read more about it here: Karoo.)
The Karoo is also incredibly beautiful. There is no other way to describe it. It is astounding, this gigantic, rough, dusty expanse of reddish earth, broken occasionally by oddly shaped hills, small shrubbery and the semi-wild sheep which have somehow found a way to graze upon the sparse and tough vegetation. But then suddenly you round a curve and before you there are flowers, flowers! the vibrant and luminous orange and yellow and violet striking your eyes like a funky meteorite. In one episode, as we stopped for lunch by the side of the N1 highway, i was overcome, yes indeed, overcome, with such postivity and joy to be alive, i took of my shirt because i couldn't afford not to. The earth, the silence, the sun falling on my bare skin, i was at peace with myself and the world around me.
The Karoo was by far the most pleasant to drive to, but the drive from Polokwane to Nelspruit was eye-opening as well, though for different reasons. That area makes you feel like you are in the "real Africa", the Africa as it has been shaped in the western mentality; the villages with shacks made from sheet metal and cardboard, the poverty and the hunger. I don't want to postulate too much on these complex topics in a blog such as this, but coming face to face with these realities makes you seriously question and examine your own.
I will leave you with a photograph of the Karoo, courtesy of the flickr account of South African Tourism.
cheers,
oskar
What?
What have i been doing here so far?
I arrived in Cape Town on the morning of the 5th of August, 2011. After the longest plane journey i have ever completed, including a few hour stopover at Dubai Airport, i needed 2 or 3 days to relax, and more importantly to adjust to this new place. I got the know the place where i was staying, and also took a few walks around the center of Cape Town, but without any haste or urgency. I visited the local independent cinema, The Labia (which in my opinion is a great name for a movie theatre). Then after the brief relapse it was back to figuring out further logistics, and embarking on a tour of the country. Before i came here i took it as my mission to travel to every city that the world cup games took place in, photographing each stadium, and the areas around it. I rented a car, and in 12 days travelled to Bloemfontein, Johannesburg, Pretoria, Rustenburg, Polokwane, and Mbombela (also known as Nelspriut), covering almost 5000km, and pushing the tiny Hyundai Atos through roads paved and not, conquering the Karoo and the bushveld. I have arrived back in Cape Town with significant financial losses, but a richer man emotionally and in terms of experience.
So right now, i have photographed 7 of the 10 world cup stadiums, with only Cape Town, Port Elizabeth, and Durban left. The Cape Town Green Point Stadium i am saving for last i think, because it is the most accessible for me, and also because i have noticed that with every stadium i photograph, the project takes on more shape, but also new ideas and questions present themselves, meaning that everything constantly shifts. So if i have the time to photograph in Cape Town, i would rather use it wisely and cautiously. Now i am focusing on figuring out how to get to Durban and Port Elizabeth. My financial resources are almost depleted as i mentioned, but i am forcing myself to stay positive. The project is going very very well, and that is the most important thing.
In further posts i will attempt to describe each stadium and city in further detail, augmented with fragments from a travel log i was keeping on the road. Unfortunately i will not be able to post my own photographs yet, i am shooting everything anologically, and i have to wait until i come back to Prague to develop and scan the films, but i will try to find some visual media to stimulate you dedicated readers.
cheers,
oskar
I arrived in Cape Town on the morning of the 5th of August, 2011. After the longest plane journey i have ever completed, including a few hour stopover at Dubai Airport, i needed 2 or 3 days to relax, and more importantly to adjust to this new place. I got the know the place where i was staying, and also took a few walks around the center of Cape Town, but without any haste or urgency. I visited the local independent cinema, The Labia (which in my opinion is a great name for a movie theatre). Then after the brief relapse it was back to figuring out further logistics, and embarking on a tour of the country. Before i came here i took it as my mission to travel to every city that the world cup games took place in, photographing each stadium, and the areas around it. I rented a car, and in 12 days travelled to Bloemfontein, Johannesburg, Pretoria, Rustenburg, Polokwane, and Mbombela (also known as Nelspriut), covering almost 5000km, and pushing the tiny Hyundai Atos through roads paved and not, conquering the Karoo and the bushveld. I have arrived back in Cape Town with significant financial losses, but a richer man emotionally and in terms of experience.
So right now, i have photographed 7 of the 10 world cup stadiums, with only Cape Town, Port Elizabeth, and Durban left. The Cape Town Green Point Stadium i am saving for last i think, because it is the most accessible for me, and also because i have noticed that with every stadium i photograph, the project takes on more shape, but also new ideas and questions present themselves, meaning that everything constantly shifts. So if i have the time to photograph in Cape Town, i would rather use it wisely and cautiously. Now i am focusing on figuring out how to get to Durban and Port Elizabeth. My financial resources are almost depleted as i mentioned, but i am forcing myself to stay positive. The project is going very very well, and that is the most important thing.
In further posts i will attempt to describe each stadium and city in further detail, augmented with fragments from a travel log i was keeping on the road. Unfortunately i will not be able to post my own photographs yet, i am shooting everything anologically, and i have to wait until i come back to Prague to develop and scan the films, but i will try to find some visual media to stimulate you dedicated readers.
cheers,
oskar
Why?
Why am i starting this blog? Hmmmm. I have always considered my person as being of the un-blogging variety, because, indeed, no one really needs to hear about all the stupid and quotidian things i happen to do or not do in my dreary and ordinary life. The honest truth that i have had to face is that my life was boring, sheltered, and my general outlook upon it was full of this shabby european skepticism which has permeated the old continent since the colonial days.
But how things have changed. I am writing this first blog entry sitting in a small cafe in Cape Town, more specifically in Observatory, a charming little neighborhood situated right under Table Mountain and Devil's Peak. The local inhabitants shorten the name to the rather crude sounding "Obz", which if you hear it standing alone, might not sound too bad, but in juxtaposition with the delightfully quaint-sounding "Observatory"(especially if you pronounce it the right way), sayings "Obz" seems almost sacrilegious. I don't do it.
I am in South Africa, and in general i feel better than i ever have since i was about 5. This country constantly fascinates, amazes, surprises and almost brings me to tears. This blog will stand as a journal in which i will try, to the best of my abilities, convey some of the wonderful experiences i am having in this strange and magical place.
I would also like to dedicate this blog to all of you, some strange, but all magical, people who have encouraged and supported me with this, it is you guys who have made this possible, and i am terribly indebted to you.
If you are a newcomer, have never heard of me, just stumbled upon this blog by chance, you can read about the project, and in general about what i am trying to do in South Africa, here:
http://www.indiegogo.com/South-Africa-Post-World-Cup-Tremors
Cheers,
oskar
But how things have changed. I am writing this first blog entry sitting in a small cafe in Cape Town, more specifically in Observatory, a charming little neighborhood situated right under Table Mountain and Devil's Peak. The local inhabitants shorten the name to the rather crude sounding "Obz", which if you hear it standing alone, might not sound too bad, but in juxtaposition with the delightfully quaint-sounding "Observatory"(especially if you pronounce it the right way), sayings "Obz" seems almost sacrilegious. I don't do it.
I am in South Africa, and in general i feel better than i ever have since i was about 5. This country constantly fascinates, amazes, surprises and almost brings me to tears. This blog will stand as a journal in which i will try, to the best of my abilities, convey some of the wonderful experiences i am having in this strange and magical place.
I would also like to dedicate this blog to all of you, some strange, but all magical, people who have encouraged and supported me with this, it is you guys who have made this possible, and i am terribly indebted to you.
If you are a newcomer, have never heard of me, just stumbled upon this blog by chance, you can read about the project, and in general about what i am trying to do in South Africa, here:
http://www.indiegogo.com/South-Africa-Post-World-Cup-Tremors
Cheers,
oskar
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